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Wavy

As soon as I reach the water I scream. The water is freezing! The voice in the back of my head tells me to go back inside and go back to sleep, considering it is four in the morning. Instead, I tell myself to keep going because catching this wave will make it all worth it. My cousin paddles out first and I follow. When I hop on my board, I cringe from the many bruises and rashes that I had acquired over the past three weeks of surfing. We have a pretty far paddle out to the point and my arms feel like bricks, not wanting to move. But again, I tell myself to keep going because the feeling of catching a wave is that worth it.

When we reach the point, I sit up to get a good view of what is ahead. My cousin, a local of Hawaii and a much more experienced surfer, helps me to spot a set of waves coming. The wave travels closer slowly starting to break. I hurry and paddle as fast as I can to catch the perfect spot on the wave. I feel the wave start to push my board and I hop up. Then, I experience my favorite feeling ever, I caught the wave!

Comments

  1. emma's blogAugust 31, 2017 at 12:17 PM

    I am so jealous of your surfing! It must have been fun to spend three weeks there!

    ReplyDelete

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